|Adriana Delfino wearing her own homage to Elsa "Schiap"|
|Schiap Shop ad from BE Magazine article|
Schiap is also the first fashion designer to conceive the fashion show as a real engaging show. All the themes that she uses into her own collections are the topics she had studied in her younger years, yet from her unusual point of view. This is how she includes constellations and bugs in her clothes: stars were an homage to her astronomer uncle and the insect world is a symbol of hidden nature, the core of life.
She is the first designer also to use zips in her evening gowns. Schiap saw zips as constrast color decorations. In 1939 she makes a collection inspired to 19th century fashion and then to music.
In 1940 came the "cash and carry" collection with coats and dresses with huge pockets so that women could leave their purses home and just fill their pockets.
During WW II she leaves France for the USA where she tries to raise funds to support Paris, her atelier is managed by her most trusted collaborators. Finally in 1944 she comes back but the world has changed, there is little fabric, the new fashion show are sort of exhibits where the new models are shown on small mannequins, in miniature. The vision of life has changed and Schiap's approach to life and fashion has changed too, she is much more minimal and when Chanel comes back in 1954, Elsa closes her atelier for good.
For a short time, Schiap makes some accessories and then she retires to Tunisia and fully devotes to her grandchildren.
|the lobster dress designed by Dalí|
To remember Schiap's work and innovations, Adriana Delfino did Ma Petite Robe Noire, a collection to homage her in 2010.